Sewing a waistcoat – how to sew

Here is a post on sewing a waistcoat. Sewing a waistcoat can quite challenging as there are welt pocket, notch collars, buttonholes and lining involve. For detailed instructions on how to sew welt pockets here is the link.

Waistcoats do come in trend every now and then. They are great to wear on its own or over a garment or top.

sewing waistcoat

Sewing a waistcoat

Once you found a pattern that you like, cut out and trace exactly as on the pattern. Sew the darts on if there is any. Some darts sit on top of the pocket pieces follow the instructions. The Burda pattern that I am sewing from didn’t have the dart. But a side piece that needs to be sewn first before sewing welt pockets. Welt pockets come in double or single. It just simply means it’s bind on two sides instead of one.

sewn lapel

Once the welt pocket is sewn then sew in the notch collars. Attach the side seams first or any waistcoat bands. Here is a link on sewing notch collars. First of all, before the notch collar is sewn interface and sew the lapel. Interface is important as they help to shape the garment.

Sewing a waistcoat lining

sewing waistcoat lining

Once the notch collar is sewn, sew the lining on. The lining will tidy the welt pocket pieces and seams in place.

To sew the lining there are two methods. One is a pull thru with side seam left open. Another method is leaving the shoulders open like sewing a lining on a shift dress. The seams are left open so that the insides can be pull thru once it’s sewn. Otherwise it is impossible to pull thru. I have used the side seam method as in my opinion side seams are much wider to sew than narrow shoulder seam.

Once is done sew the side and finish the bottom seam of the waistcoat.

sewing waistcoat inside

Sewing buttonholes

Once the lining is sewn, mark the buttonhole openings then sew the buttonholes and button. Here is a link on sewing buttonholes.

Thank you for stopping by.

sewing waistcoat

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