How to sew an open-ended zip

This is a blog post on how to sew an open-ended zip. Open-ended zip is a zip that opens all the way out till it comes apart in two pieces. Like all things sewing the more detail the task is the more precision, it requires in achieving a good result. The is important where the start and ends of the zip meet as this also where more force applied when zipping the garment up.

jacket with open-ended zip

I have previously written on how to sew with invisible zip which is more commonly use., open-ended zip has its time and place. Open-ended zip is great to use in jacket or coat openings. It is another way fastening up and jacket instead of using buttons. It is sold in most haberdashery shops and online suppliers for example eBay. Do try to buy the exact length as too short the opening will be fully fastened. Too long you might trim away the vital components that may affect the function of the zip.

how to sew open-ended zip
open-ended zip

On advantage is that it wouldn’t go missing so easily like buttons. I use it on a Burda military-style jacket pattern. The pattern has got a slash opening from the middle to one side of the shoulder. Open-ended zip is also seen in children’s jacket opening as it provides an easy and fast way of closing and opening a jacket/ coat.

How to sew an open-ended zip

how to sew open ended zip
open ended zip on jacket

First of all finish the seams of the garment. Then also the lining and leaving just the opening of zip open. Then pin the zip in the correct position. Be mindful where the zip ends meet at the fastening. As this is most likely where the seam ends with the lining as well. So a bit going on. With some practice, it will be easy. One tip is not to cut away any excess fabric till one is sure the zip opens and closes easily after sewing.

pinning zip to jacket

Also be mindful where the top end meets as these may not symmetrical as the opposite side. The length of the zip may just be a bit too long for the opening. If you have to trim away the ends the top end where it stops the zip from zipping all the way out may need to cut away. Another grove or component will need to be made like using a tight buttonhole zigzag stitch.

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