Maker of clothes, recipes, natural fabric dyeing, Gardener of veg, fruit and flowers.

Maker of clothes, recipes, natural fabric dyeing, Gardener of veg, fruit and flowers.

Invisible (concealed) zip – how to sew

Invisible or concealed zip is a great invention for dressmakers as it’s visible at all once it’s inserted. This technique can use for all invisible zip insertion whether is a dress, skirt or trousers.

Here is how I sew an invisible zip to a skirt.

Preparing the opening

Prepare the opening sew up about 5 cm before the opening of the zip. this is to give room for the invisible zipper foot to move around.  This is very important otherwise you will end up with a pluckered end which is what I use to end up with Invisible zip challenge no fun at all. Also depending on the type of fabric use and the technique use sometimes you will have a bit of plucker at the end of the bottom opening.

It is another reason to use invisible zipper as much as you can as you will end less plucker at the zip opening.

Zip length

Another tip is to always buy or have a longer zip that what you need if you have a choice. It is much easier to trim down a longer zip than to try make room for a shorter zip.

Pin the zip on one end taking the note of how much room you want to give for waitsbands, collars, fasterners like hook & eye or snap on buttons.

Iron the zip open so that it opens to the edge as much as possible. For invisible zipper to work the stitch need to be sewn as close to the edge as possible. But not so close that the stitch is on the zip. Then it would close at all ?!! Then pin the zip horizontally with the opening.

I am using this zipper foot which has got a divided opening. It is meant to push the zip out to the edge as much as possible. However sometimes that just doesn’t happen as there is an adjustment screw at top of the foot. Where if too much adjustment you will end up sewing right thru the zip too little the zip becomes visible.

It all depends on the thickness of the fabric. the thicker the fabric the more forgiving it is. Sew the fabric in place using the invisible zipper foot. At the end sew along the openings together. Skimming as close as you can to the edge when reach to the zip opening. Press and fold open. Iron out any fold. Sometimes whatever you do it ends up a bit of pluck edge. Pressing with an iron will help to straighten it.

If it is done nicely the end result is hardly visible.


how to sew invisible zip

how to sew invisible zip



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