Maker of clothes, recipes, natural fabric dyeing, Gardener of veg, fruit and flowers.

Maker of clothes, recipes, natural fabric dyeing, Gardener of veg, fruit and flowers.

How to make notch collar

Some do come with collar band some don’t come with collarband. If they don’t come with collarband it simply means it is build into the collar itself. A good tell tale of this design is the the lapel and collar tend to lay flat rather than stands up like a shirt collar design. this blog post is on how to make notch collar.

notch collar with lapel on coat
notch collar with lapel on coat

They are commonly seen in classic pyjama tops, jackets and coats. I have made notch collar on a coat recently. The collar itself comes in different design and shapes. at the end of the day, the technique on how to sew notch collar is the same as the rest. Notch collars sit on lapels of the coat or jacket. Where the collar lays open on top of the lapel.

coat with notch collar
coat

The principles of making all collars tends to be the same. Different types of collars vary slightly from on and another. It also depends on the skill of the dressmaker and what experience she has as well.

ordinary shirt collar
shirt collar

How to make notch collar

To make notch collars accurate cutting according to the pattern is important. As there is two sides of the notch that sits on the shoulders and neck it draws attention to the eye. If it’s you first few attempts just go slow in cutting and sewing it.

notch collar pattern

Then start preparing the collar-band and the lapel. This is where the notch collar will sit.

collar pieces
notch collar and collar band sewn together
notch collar and collar band sewn together

This thicker the fabric the harder it is to mould the shape of the collar. Depending on the design if there are sharp corners it’s a bit harder to shape otherwise it’s fairly straightforward.

Sewing with s thicker fabric gives lots of challenges to the sewer. When sewing the collars and main garment where there is the interfacing and facing (lapel) the thickness of fabric is quite thick. One has to take care to make sure all the layers are sewn in the right place. Failure to do so it will create distortion in the construction of the garment. I know this from my coat sewing experience. I use a hand slip stitch to fold in all the corners of the collar band.

If you sew a collar band you can sew a notch collar. Here is a link a blog post on how to sew collar band onto collars. The shape of the collar may look different but it’s how it’s cut that makes the difference. Burda has a write up on how to draft a notched collar

waistcoat


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