I recently made myself a coat. The pattern uses collar band for it’s notch collar. Therefore this blog is on how to sew collar band. Some collar bands do come with collars some don’t. Collar bands are use to ‘hold’ the collar up so as to give it more shape. It is a function in collar making.
Personally I am not a fan of collars as they are and can be fiddly to sew. I had to sew a collar on a fireman outfit for my 4 year old and I did made a small mess out of it. Given time I probably would corrected it. Need more practice sewing kids clothes.
Collarband are also seen in menwear shirts and the latest trend for ladies the shirt dress. Also I have also sew collar band onto notched collar on my coat. Check out on the lastest burda magazine. I like to keep up with current trend and colours. Here is more blog posts on dressmaking tips on sewing with sheer fabric, tweed, buttonholes, etc.
Here is how to sew it
First of make up the pattern as like what the pattern says. I find it much much easier to visualize with pictures rather than reading instructions. Make up pattern pieces that will have an effect on the collarband making.
For example like sewing on/ setting raglan sleeves onto the front and back body pieces. The shoulder pieces especially. Basically anywhere the collar will sit. Putting or ironing on the interfacing for the front. Zips and buttons come the last few steps of sewing a garment. Just like hemming.
Cut out the pieces exactly like the pattern. Accurate tracing and cutting is very important in sewing. Especially in small places like collar any little faults it will show.
I normally cut out the interfacing that will suit the type of fabric. Too heavy it add bulk, to light the collar will be floppy. Collar band it the extra piece that will give some height to the garment. Sometimes collarband piece is not on the pattern as it’s pattern just simply calls for a flat laying style collar.
Making the collar and collarband up
Iron the interfacing onto the collar and collarband pieces. also on the none interface piece press the outer seam with an iron. It will help with setting the collar band piece latter onto the garment. Also sew the collar piece and turn it right side out.
I have recently found a way to sew collar band which is to sandwich in between the collar. Eye ball of make the notch to show the exact point of where the edge of the collar band and collar sits.
Trim away then turn the collar band right side out. I don’t have a photo as I forgot to take one. But just trust me on this. On the right corner you can see the difference in the length between the collar band and collar.
Then pin the collarband onto the collar.
Sew it round and there you are collar band on collar. As it is part of the collar then pin it to the right main fabric of the body of the shirt/ garment. Just sew in place. Not easy was that as like collars and sleeve one needs to ease in nicely so it sits where it is suppose to sit.
When it’s sewn correct when you flip over the non interfaced piece should be facing inside. Then just hand stitched the non iron piece onto the collar for precise collar placement. If you choose to sew it might wobble or go all over the place.
This hand stitch is just to catch the machined stitches that is on the neckline and collar band pieces.