Here is my experience of sewing a silk chiffon blouse in comparison to sewing with ordinary thickness fabrics like cotton, linen and even heavy silks like crepe silk. I have sewn a blouse using an old Burda edition ‘world of sewing’ magazine. I have collected loads of burda magazine patterns over the years. I just adapt the pattern to current trends.
Sewing with sheer chiffon fabric and using french seam.
Sewing chiffon/ sheer fabric is rather different from sewing on an ordinary fabric like cotton even the heavier silk. Here is in more depth on how to sew sheer fabric. This silk chiffon is very thin, fragile (it can be for some types of fabric) and transparent. The ends fray incredibly easily. Therefore I have used french seams all over the place including the sleeves. Here is my link on how to sew french seams.
Some dressmakers don’t use french seams for sleeves as it’s curved but I just find it much easier to use. I knew this is that I got a second hand silk chiffon DVF (Diane von frustenberg) blouse that bought from ebay. That is how I learn to improve my sewing by hacking what the professionals do. Also I have got sewing books, nowadays the internet and youtube.
I will update once I start wearing this blouse more and see how the french seam on the sleeve perform. In my opinion it will do well as the french seam seem to transform a tissue paper thin into something quite durable and tough. The sleeves on this pattern is quite loose fitting so I might have just gotten away with.
There are other methods to set the sleeve in. I know of one where binding is use instead of french seam. Using bias binding as a reinforce method.
I know this as I had a Diane von Frustenberg silk chiffon blouse which I had but have now frayed and come apart. One tip i have learn is never to use a heavier fabric to create a pattern or design. It just won’t hold the delicate silk chiffon fabric together. It was quite a tight fitting blouse as well. Personally I would use a fabric with a bit of stretch in a sheer fabric. It just gives it more room for movement otherwise the garment would just get rip and come apart at the seams.
For the hems I just fold over and sew as close as I can to the edge.
The buttonholes I just use the same setting and foot I use for other types of fabric. Nothing special needed at all.
For the collar I use a light weight facing so as not to create a over heavy layered and stiff collar.
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